However, right off the bat, you will not see this error on the dash or screen.

It is after you have run an OBD2 scanner that you will see this specific error.

When you experience this problem, the car will suddenly lose power, then you will see the following errors on the screen.

Then on the dashboard, you will see the following error icons.

Based on my experience, the DC / DC Converter Performance shows that the step-down/step-up transformer inside the inverter has malfunctioned.

Causes of the DC / DC Converter Performance Error

The two main reasons that are most likely the cause of a faulty inverter (step-up/step-down transformer) are wear and tear, and overheating.

Solution

My recommendation for how to solve this problem is to just replace the inverter.

There is the option of importing the inverter from Japan or sourcing one locally in Kenya.

Contact us if you need help sourcing for an ex-Japan inverter for your Mazda Axela Hybrid, the 2014 model.

Here is a photo of the process of replacing a faulty inverter.

In my case, I have experienced a shaking steering wheel after a garage visit to replace my tie rods.

While getting my problem fixed, I found out that tie rod replacement can lead to a host of issues that I’ve covered below. Your car might be experiencing one of the following problems without you knowing.

1. Toe angle problems

One of the first problems you will encounter after a tie rod replacement is misalignment on the toe angle.

The common cause for a problematic toe angle is installing tie rods with mismatching lengths.

Toe adjustment only on one side is the other reason for toe angle problems.

Driving with an off toe angle can cause suspension damage and a bump steer if not fixed early enough.

2. Unsteady steering wheel

Another problem you may encounter after replacing your tie road is an unsteady steering wheel, especially when driving on a smooth flat surface.

Since the tie rod is responsible for steering a badly installed one so if it was not well installed or had issues, the steering wheel will be affected. You can test if your steering wheel is balanced by driving straight on a smooth pavement; if the steering wheel tugs to the left or right, you have an alignment problem. You will also feel like you do not have full control of the steering wheel, reducing your response time when turning.

3. Vibrating steering wheel

The tire rod replacement was supposed to fix the vibrating steering wheel, but if the issue persists after the change, you should get the new tie rod changed. A vibrating steering wheel may not seem that alarming, but it is usually an early sign that something is faulty in your steering system.

4. Uneven tire wear

You may notice that your wheels wear out faster or wear out unevenly after a tie rod replacement. When you look at the wear pattern on your tires’ treads, you will notice that the wear is not even. Typically, the vehicle’s weight is spread across all wheels equally when the components of the suspension and steering systems lock correctly. You should recheck your tie rod replacement as uneven tire wear will affect your driving ability and the vehicle’s balance as well.

5. Squealing noise from the tires

When tires are wearing out unevenly, they make a squealing sound that gets louder when accelerating or turning. This noise may not be noticeable soon after a tie rod replacement, but the squealing gets louder as the tires worsen over time.

6. Increased fuel intake

If you are very keen, you may notice high gas mileage after replacing your tie rod. This problem happens if the tie rod replacement was not efficient. Your misaligned wheels will have increased resistance with the road leading to more fuel consumption.

One common question that many car owners ask is; do I need an alignment after a tie rod replacement, and can a tie rod affect alignment? Yes, and yes. Your vehicle’s tie rod is almost synonymous with a wheel alignment. And it is usually a very critical step after a tie rod replacement. Wheel alignment is mandatory after replacing any suspension or steering components. The tie rods control the steering angles, and if they have just been tampered with, the wheel angles have likely changed.

A wheel alignment will fix the toe angles back to the car’s specifications. Forgetting to do a wheel alignment after a tie rod replacement will lead to all the problems explained above and maybe even more expensive repairs. Subsequently, a faulty tie rod will affect your alignment and steering abilities. A wheel alignment will make your wheels last longer and give you a smoother drive. You also get to save on fuel consumption and frequent wheel changes.

Sloppy steering after tie rod replacement

What causes the steering wheel to feel sloppy after replacing inner tie rods?

The inner tie rod connects to the steering assembly, so a problem with the inner road replacement will lead to a loss of ability to steer the wheel. Below are some of the reasons behind a wobbly steering wheel after inner tie rod replacement.

If the joint that connects the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod was not adjusted properly, it could cause the steering wheel to feel sloppy after a replacement.

Another reason could be that you did not replace a worn-out tie rod end. If you replaced your tie rod due to wear, the tie rod end was also likely to wear out too, as they have the same lifespan. A worn-out tie rod end has excess free play, which causes the front wheels to lose their alignment. So driving with a new tie rod with a defective tie rod end will still cause an unsteady steering wheel and degrade the new inner tie rod quickly.

Worn-out ball joints could be a reason for a sloppy steering wheel. The ball joints are part of the suspension system; they support the vehicle’s weight and allow proper steering. Though the ball joints work independently from the tie rods, your steering ability also gets affected if the ball joints fail.

A torn tie rod boot can damage your new tie rod end and cause steering problems. Water and other contaminants damage the tie rod end, causing excessive play, which leads to a shaky or vibrating steering wheel. So you also have to replace the protective boot with the tie rod because, once the protective boot degrades, the tie rod end won’t last long.

If your inner tie rod replacement is okay, a wobbly steering wheel could be a sign of failing wheel bearings. Wheel bearings allow friction-free movement and wheel rotation, so if the wheel bearings become defective, it causes looseness in the steering wheel.

Damaged brake rotors and braking pads can cause the steering wheel to feel shaky. If the brake rotors wear out or warp, you will feel some vibration on the steering wheel when slowing down or braking.

Bad braking pads can cause a wobbly steering wheel. The front brake system connects to the steering wheel through a series of steering systems. So if the brake rotor is in good condition, the next most likely culprit has worn out braking pads.

Tips to remember when replacing your tie rod

These tips are essential to remember when replacing your tie rod to reduce the risk of premature tie rod failure.

After replacing your tie rod, always perform a wheel assignment. If you did the replacement yourself, have the alignment done at a reputable auto shop. If you have a mechanic replacing the tie rod, always confirm that the alignment is done and ask for a report. Most times, the mechanics charge the alignment separate from the tie rod replacement.

Tie rods do not have a universal design. What fits in one car may not work in yours. When buying a replacement tie rod, always make sure it is compatible with the old one or always go for a manufacturer’s recommendation.

When replacing the tie rod yourself, always confirm with your user manual on the proper torque values to use. The incorrect torque will lead to premature tie rod failure.

Apply lubrication oil such as WD40 on the nuts and other joints to minimize friction.

If you’re experiencing problems after a tie rod replacement, it indicates premature tie rod failure. You will experience a loose steering wheel and the effects of poor wheel alignment, which can also lead to an accident if you do not address the issue early. These problems tend to arise from poor or lack of wheel alignment after tie rod replacement, low-quality replacement parts, or the wrong tie rod for your car.

Conclusion

Put simply from the article; your car can’t steer without tie rods. And in the case that you develop problems after a tie rod replacement, it is imperative to do a diagnosis and repairs as soon as possible. Be on the lookout for any of the signs listed above and respond accordingly to avoid any further problems and repairs.

Here’s what I found after my research.

Usually, a thumping sound from your car is a sign that you have tire problems. When tires are wearing out unevenly, they produce a thumping sound. If the sound is loud enough for you to hear with the windows closed, then it is likely that more than one tire is affected. Sometimes the noise may seem like it’s coming from the tires, but the tires may not have issues.

Since a car has many complex systems, a thumping sound can mean different things.

Here’s a table showing different thump noises, meaning, and their estimated repair cost assuming you have a Honda Civic.

The table just gives a snapshot of how to quickly diagnose a thump noise.

Car thumb noises and their meanings

Here’s an in-depth explanation for the different sounds.

1. Noise caused by the type of tires

It would be best to know that different tires make different noises. For example, most tires will make a thumping noise on concrete surfaces with expansion joints.

If you had your tires replaced recently, the problem could be the type of tires. Steel-belted tires are very tough, stiff, and durable but are also very noisy. They have a distinct low thud noise when driving.

Belted tires using fiberglass or synthetic materials are quieter and give a smoother ride.

So if you just got new tires, the thump sound could be from the type of tires you have. But if the noise sounds new and abnormal, that sounds like a problem that needs fixing.

2. Uneven worn-out tires’ noise

If there is a thumping sound from the rear of the car, it is most likely a tire problem.

To put it to the test,  try driving your car on a smooth surface with no vehicles at about 2-3 miles per hour and let go of your steering wheel. If the steering wheel is unstable, it means your back tires are wearing out unevenly, which can be dangerous when you start accelerating.

It would be best if you got your wheels replaced immediately.

3. Worn-out struts or shocks

If the car sounds like it has a flat tire but doesn’t, there is a problem with either the struts or shocks.

Your vehicle has struts at the front wheels and shocks on the rear wheels for absorbing shock and support.

When the struts or shocks start to wear out, they vibrate against the car’s body, producing a thumping sound. You will need to replace the worn-out strut or shocks.

4. Broken starter motor mount

Another reason the front of your car is producing a thump when accelerating is a broken starter motor mount.

The starter motor mount connects the engine and the chassis and absorbs vibration coming from the engine.

So if you have a bad starter motor mount and you accelerate, it produces heavier vibrations. Replace the rubber seal on the motor mount to fix the problem.

5. Warped brake rotors

When there is a problem with your car’s braking system, it tends to make a thumping sound when slowing down or braking.

If the brake rotors have worn out or warped, you will hear the rhythmic sound coming from your front wheels, which do most of the braking. You will also feel some vibration from your steering wheel. If they are twisted, you can quickly straighten them without needing a replacement.

6. Noise caused by worn-out brake pads

The pad material on cheap breaking pads wears out quickly and accumulates around the rotor.

Also, the metal chunks exposed by the worn-out pad material can scratch against the rotors and cause a thumping sound.

If you notice your braking pads are worn, you can easily replace them with quality ones.

7. Faulty transmission

A transmission problem can also cause a thumping sound from the front.

To identify this problem, go to a place with no cars and downshift the transmission while allowing the vehicle to slow down without stepping on the brake pedal.

If you still hear the noise from the front of the car, then there is a transmission problem. Check all your fluids and refill them.

8. Worn out spark plugs

Your car could be fine until you’re at a traffic light stop and you start hearing some knocking or thumping sound.

When the engine is not firing correctly on all cylinders, your car will make a thumping sound when idle, which causes heavy vibrations.

If you have worn-out spark plugs, they will prevent the engine from igniting the mixture of fuel and air properly on all cylinders, causing a misfire.

It would be best if you had your mechanic perform a cylinder balance test using a scan tool. A weak cylinder vacuum or thin seal valve may be the reason for a thumping on idle.

9. Bad wheel bearing

The most common way of identifying a bad wheel bearing is a wheel bearing thump when the car is going through a curve that also changes in proportion to the vehicle’s speed.

The noise can also be very inconsistent, and it can be loud sometimes or very quiet on other occasions.

You can confirm the bearings’ condition by jacking the car and rocking the tires back and forth.

Place a dial indicator on the hub while turning the wheel in and out by hand. The dial indicator measures the bearing play. Experts say that any bearing play of more than 0.005 is terrible, and you should replace them immediately.

Identifying the bearing with the problem may be difficult, so you have to measure the wheels bearing on all tires.

10. A damaged exhaust system

A thumping noise coming from your exhaust means there is a problem in your exhaust system. It also tends to be a shallow thumping sound and is more apparent when you stop the car without turning off the engine.

It would be best if you did not ignore any problem signs from your exhaust as it could leak carbon monoxide into your car.

11. Low tire pressure

When your car makes thudding noise while driving, it means that your tires have low and uneven air pressure. It could also mean that your wheels are misaligned. If you do not have a flat tire, the thud noise is usually accompanied by a bumpier ride, especially when driving on smooth roads.

12. Worn-out CV joint

After a trip to the mechanic, my car’s diagnosis is a damaged Constant Velocity joint (CV joint) on the left side, which the mechanic replaced. I also noticed grease dripping along the inside of the wheel rim from a tear in the CV joint.

The CV joint transfers power from the transmission to the wheels at a constant speed while supporting the suspension’s up and down motion. So when it wears out, it makes a thump or a click sound when turning, and the car also becomes bouncy.

Any unusual sounds coming from your car is always an excellent way to identify a problem before it worsens and leads to more expensive repairs. Since people describe sounds differently, you have to take your car to get a more professional diagnosis and repair.

Can you fill your tires with nitrogen at home instead of car center refills? Yes! It’s easy to give your tires a refill by yourself by using a nitrogen-filled cylinder and following the correct steps. Remove as much air as possible from the tires, then refill them with nitrogen. A 96-percent nitrogen fill is good enough since you cannot get rid of all the air before you start filling.

Fill your tires with nitrogen at home

Filling your tires with nitrogen at tire centers or car dealerships will quickly pile up your car maintenance costs. So, why don’t you invest in a home nitrogen refill setup? Here’s what you will need. Also, check the table below for the analyzed numbers.

1. Nitrogen tank or cylinder

For your home use, you will need a nitrogen cylinder (mid-sized tank) just like the ones you use for welding gases. You can opt for a tank that holds about 300 cubic feet of nitrogen, which will be enough for about 60 refills.

The mid-sized tank is a reasonable investment. Getting the 300 cu/ft size will cost about $400, so can opt for a small-sized one like a 125 cu/ft on Amazon. You’ll pay about $40 to refill 300 cu/ft if you run out of nitrogen.

If you do the calculations, your 300 cubic feet of nitrogen cylinder can refill your car tires about 15 times. You will end up saving lots of money since most nitrogen refills cost between $3 and $10 per tire ($12 – $40 for all tires).

2. Digital tire inflator

Tire inflators let you regulate how much air fills your tires. It connects from the nitrogen tank to the tire valve.

Connecting your digital tire inflator or gauge is a matter of plugging and screwing. You can use Teflon tape for an air-tight connection to the gas cylinder.

Some inflator packs come with standard valve caps, which you won’t use (use the nitrogen valve caps instead).

3. Portable nitrogen analyzer

You don’t want all your effort in setting up a nitrogen filling system to go to waste. Get a portable nitrogen analyzer to check the nitrogen percentage in your tires after each refill.

Besides the cylinder, an N analyzer is the other expensive part of your DIY nitrogen filling station.

4. Nitrogen valve caps

After your tires are rocking at least 96 percent nitrogen, you want people to know you’ve gone green.

Have you ever seen those green tire valve stem caps labeled N2? Those are the ones you need to seal your tires.

5. Lift jack

As a car owner who loves DIYing, a lift jack is part of my toolset. If do not have one, it will another addition to the things you need during your tire filling procedure. I recommend getting a heavy triple lift jack (check the exact price on Amazon).

How much does it cost to fill tires with nitrogen?

With the breakdown of all the things you need to fill your tires at home with nitrogen, we can estimate how much you will spend.

Here’s an interesting comparison table.

Let’s break down the second table. We’re working with a 300 cubic feet cylinder that can roughly fill 60 tires. It means you can fill all the four tires of your car 15 times before buying another supply of nitrogen for your cylinder.

As mentioned, filling your tires at a gas center costs anywhere between $3 and $10. Let’s use $5 per tire fill, which means you’ll spend $20 for all your tires.

Procedure for filling nitrogen in your tires at home

The purpose of filling your tires with N gas is to enjoy the benefits it offers. We’ll discuss the benefits later in this post, but first here are the correct steps you need to follow.

• Remove the valve core to let out as much existing air as possible from the tire. If you don’t have a special tool for removing valve cores, use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Lift your car using a lift jack before removing the valve core.
• Connect the digital tire inflator to the nitrogen cylinder and fill up the tire with about five pounds of pressure. Then, let it blow out again to eliminate the remaining oxygen.
• Before all the air blows out, screw back the valve core.
• Now, fill up the tire with pure nitrogen to full pressure.
• The next step is to find out how much N is inside your refilled tire. Use the nitrogen analyzer gauge by connecting its nozzle to the tire valve. Let it analyze the air coming out of the tire for about 25 seconds.
• Repeat the steps if the N reading is less than 96 percent.

Can I put nitrogen in my tires myself? Where can I fill my tires with nitrogen? These are some of the questions I saw people asking online during my research.

If you follow the steps I have listed above you can clearly fill your tires yourself, and do it at home.

How do you check nitrogen-filled tires?

Plug the nozzle of your N analyzer onto the tire valve. As air escapes from inside the tire, the analyzer will display the percentage of N.

Tires filled with nitrogen will generally show a percentage higher than 92.

You won’t have to worry much about your tires losing pressure if you go the ‘green way’. However, you can still use the digital tire inflator to check the tire pressure when it’s cold, before driving, or after 3 hours of driving. When using the inflator to check your tire psi, do not connect it to the cylinder.

Compare the psi you’ve measured with what the car manufacturer recommends. You can find those details on the doorjamb sticker usually found on the driver’s side. Both readings should be roughly the same. The inflator has a deflation button in case of excess pressure.

Does cold weather affect nitrogen-filled tires?

Yes, a drop in temperature affects tires filled with nitrogen. During the cold season, a 10-degree Fahrenheit drop will cause a two percent pressure loss in N-filled tires.

The solution for this issue is to fill your tires 10 percent higher than the manufacturer recommended psi. However, do not go beyond the tire’s recommended psi. It might blow up.

Benefits of filling tires with nitrogen

By nature, compressed nitrogen is more homogenous and has large molecules. Its large molecules minimize tire leak-outs. However, there are other benefits of using N to fill your car tires.

1. Minimal tire temperature changes

N does not heat up as quickly as compressed air does. Because of that, your tire temperature will remain consistent hence minimizing the chances of tire blowouts associated with overheated tires.

2. Its effect on tire life

A tire operating temperature plays a part in how it wears out. If you opt for nitrogen, your temperatures will remain almost constant even after long drives hence causing minimal wear and tire associated with heated tires.

3. How it holds-up your tire pressure

You’re guaranteed consistent tire pressure for the most part of using your car. Nitrogen maintains its temperature in a hot environment hence your tires won’t have an increased pressure like in air-filled tires.

Nitrogen particles are large compared to normal air so pressure loss will be slow even in cold weather.

4. Its reaction with your tires

N is inert and dry. It is way less reactive compared to normal compressed air that can react with moisture and cause rust on the metal rim.

5. Is it a real ‘green’ option?

Nitrogen is considered a green alternative since tire pressure is constant and consistently at the right level. I turn, your car tires will run smoothly with less rolling resistance hence fuel-efficient and save on fuel expenses.

Because N can lengthen the life of your tires there will be no need to replace them often hence help in slashing your tire maintenance costs.

Besides the advantages I have listed, vehicles that operate in hazardous areas like mines should use nitrogen in their tires to reduce fire risk since it is an inert gas.

Also, you can consider using nitrogen instead of normal air tire filling because of the following reasons.

• If you drive a high-performance vehicle
• Frequent travels to areas with cold weather (pressure loss in air-filled tires)
• Live in cold or warm areas since extreme temperatures can affect air-filled tires
• If you use high-quality tires and hope to extend their lifespan

What are the disadvantages of nitrogen?

Ditching compressed air tire filling comes at a cost.

For instance, here is a valid question.

1. How much does it cost to fill tires with nitrogen?

You’ll need to think about the cost. The standard cost to fill a tire can vary from $3 to $10 per tire. The price depends on variables like tire size and pressure.

On the other hand, standard air is mostly free or $1 at many gas centers. Some dealerships, tire centers, and service stations offer free refills on-site if you buy their tires or a car from them.

2. Less available compared to normal gas

Nitrogen can be challenging to find since it’s less popular as a tire refill gas and you’re more likely to find it in select service stations.

3. Tire manufacturer warranty issues

Some tire manufacturers have policies regarding filling up their tires with nitrogen. Not all tire brands appreciate nitrogen use and may not cover it in their warranties.

I advise that you check with the tire manufacturer to see if a particular tire model you have will still be covered by their guarantee or not.

Conclusion

Filling your tires with nitrogen at home is simple. The huddle you’ll have to cross is the initial investment cost of buying the cylinder, digital tire inflator, nitrogen analyzer (you don’t have to buy it), and the valve caps. In the long run, you’ll save money while enjoying better performing tires than when using normal compressed air in your tires.

Yes, we want to find out if Vans are good for driving.

I own a pair of black Sk8-Hi and they feel very comfortable while I’m driving, but don’t take my word for it. We dived deep into YouTube and found out Vans are great driving shoes in rush hour traffic or long trips.

From the 53 videos we watched, we noted that any type of Vans will be good for daily driving. In 33 of the videos, the drivers wore either the Classics or Sk8.

Also, 28 drivers on those videos were driving manual shift cars and had great pedal control in their Vans. If you’re driving an automatic shift car, you’ll be sure of easy control of the gas and brake pedals while wearing any pair of Vans shoes.

If you decide to get a pair of Vans Authentic, Sk8, Old Skool, or any type that has laces, you’ll have to properly laced them properly for a comfortable tight fit. Proper lacing will allow you to move your feet easily from the gas and brake, as well as the clutch (if it’s a manual shift car).

The best-selling Vans to choose for driving

Vans are among the most popular brands of shoes which different people prefer. The classic skate shoes and casual Vans are most preferred. Below is a list of the best Van shoes you can consider for your driving.

1. Vans classic checkerboard slip-on

It’s a simple slip-on shoe that features a stripped-back construction with no added features.  The grippy soles cling to the pedals entirely even when damp. The rugged yet flexible model makes the right combination of comfort and control.

Here are the things you’ll love about these classic Vans as driving shoes.

• Padded collar and footbed for increased comfort
• Shock absorbent footbed
• Durable
• Waffle rubber sole
• Lightweight
• Well-fitting
• Versatile

2. Vans Sk8-Hi

These are our favorites. The Sk8-Hi is durable with a more extensive shape for comfort and support. You’ll love the signature waffle outsole, best for dependable grip and traction.

You will probably get more life out of the Sk8-Hi as regular driving shoes than any other pair on this list.

3. Vans Old Skool Gumsole

The best driving shoes, comfortable though not stylish, durable, and have grippy sole traction. The boots are super versatile with a  variety of outfits and in more different technical situations.

9 Reasons why Van shoes are good for driving

There are tons of good driving shoes on the market. For instance, Converse also has great options that we covered in this post. But why go for Vans?

1. Are they good during winter or summer?

Vans shoes have fleece inside to keep your legs warm during winter. During summer, the shoes can absorb moisture, ensuring your feet remain fresh and keep off odor. By being breathable, these shoes turn out to be the best outfit for a long drive.

2. Why lightweight and flexibility matters

When driving in a pair of Vans you won’t miss to notice how comfortable and highly responsive they feel. You’ll easily move back and forth from the accelerator to the brakes without any delay.

The easy movements also mean your feet won’t tire quickly.

3. How much do you love options?

Vans shoes come in almost limitless options. You can choose from a wide span of different combinations of colors and designs. There are low and high ankle options like the Authentics and the Sk8-Hi, respectively. Don’t forget that Slip-ons are also available.

With all the listed options, you’ll probably end up buying several pairs that match your taste. Again, you can wear Vans to any occasion and match them with your dress code.

4. What’s the cheapest pair of Vans?

The shoes are affordable with a price range for your pocket. As much as you consider the balance between quality and price, Van shoes will offer you both. Check out this cheapest pair we found.

5. Vans are comfortable

You won’t know how comfy Vans are until your try a pair. The looks of the Sk8-Hi may be deceiving. Those high-ankle shoes do not restrict your ankle movement, allowing you an excellent wide range of motion. Actually, they give you comfortable ankle support.

The shoes are also available in accurate sizes for a nice fit.

6. Two years and counting

My current pair of Sk8-Hi are two years old. Also, while watching people driving in Vans, we noticed quite a number of them were classics (meaning several years old).

These two observations prove that Vans are good quality shoes, durable, and made for rough use. Even if you go for the likes of the stylish Customs Racing Red UltraRange EXO that are a bit costly you are guaranteed it’s worth the price, the shoe will serve you for long.

7. Fashion and style

You can have them on with anything and still look stylish. Besides being good driving shoes, you can still rock them as part of your casual or professional wear.

8. Easy heel and toe movement

When driving a manual car, you need easy heel and toe movement. Pick a pair of Vans and you’ll thank me later.

The Classics, Authentic, and Sk8-Lo have a nice tight grip on the fit hence stepping on and off the pedals is pretty swift. On the other hand, the high-ankle options still offer easy heel and toe movement with nice ankle support.

When considering a pair of shoes for comfortable and safe driving we generally recommend you check out the following things.

• Decent stitching
• Heel support
• Cushioning and insoles
• Flexibility
• Pedal feel
• Extra padding around the toe box
• Grippy soles
• Best comfort

Vans shoes tick all the features and that’s why they are among the best shoes for most types of driving.

For those who’ve tried them, Vans are good for driving. You only need to pick the correct size for your feet, lace them up (if necessary) properly, and you’ll be ready for any type of drive. You can choose a pair that matches with most of your outfits if you mind your dressing style.

If you think about it, there are tons of shoe options that can ease your drive. If you ignore the options, are Converse good for driving for that matter?

Most Converse shoes are lightweight and have sticky soles that minimize slipping while stepping on your car pedals hence offer a comfortable driving experience. Be it a manual or an automatic gear shift, expect to have a less challenging long drive especially if you opt for the unisex Chuck Taylor low-top.

What makes Chucks good driving shoes?

In one way or another, you know about Chucks. They’re popular and have a rich history spanning over a century. Besides all that, here’s why I have always picked Converse as my go-to shoes for my many drives.

1. Appropriate sole thickness

Thin Sole – you will drive safely with converse due to the thin sole helping you make your calculation right when braking. It will allow you to feel the pedals properly and apply the correct amount of pressure

2. Comfortable on your feet

Chucks fit perfectly. You just need to pick your correct foot size to get a perfect fit.  Having well-fitting shoes helps you to drive efficiently and properly step on the pedals.

If you’ve ever owned a pair of Converse, you must have noticed the stretchable material that allows comfortable feet movement.

3. Ankle-protective

4. The sole should be non-slippery when wet

5. Rounded heels

The rounded-heels are perfect for allowing smooth control when releasing and pressing pedals for full brake pedal control

6. Slim Design

It helps the shoes take up only a small pedal area space. You can quickly shift your foot from the brake to the gas pedal accurately.

When searching for the best driving shoes online, you’re likely to find people recommending Vans shoes. Here’s a post talking about Vans as driving shoes.

While shopping for your shoes, these are the characteristics you should check out. The thin sole enables you to have the best pedal pressure when braking or accelerating. But if the sole is thick, it means more weight, which hinders you in controlling the pedal. The sole shouldn’t be wide, too, as it can touch two pedals. It should have a good grip also to avoid slipping. Shoes with tire tread fit driving as they can adequately grip the pedals.

What type of shoes is best for driving?

Chuck Taylor Converse shoes (Chucks) have what a driver needs for an evening traffic drive or a long road trip.

If you get a pair of Chucks or any Converse for that matter, you’ll feel how the excellent outer sole, lightweight, breathable material, laces for a secure fit make Converse ideal for driving.

It also has a tread pattern on the sole for excellent grip and traction. The rubber sole is thin and flexible for easy pedal movement.

Why are you not supposed to drive barefoot?

Driving without shoes is risky and not recommended at all. You may feel comfortable at first, but later your feet will get tired and start straining. Your bare feet may easily slip off the pedals or make you miss them. The feet do not have the same braking force as shoes and will not generate enough safe driving friction. The feet will also have injuries like burns or blisters since they have no protection.

Is it better to drive with or without shoes?

Driving with shoes is always better than doing so barefeet. Here’s why.

• The clutch may require heavy pressure that the feet can’t apply
• In case of an accident, appropriate shoes will offer protection from injuries, unlike bare feet.
• Your feet can slip off the pedal since they have no grip.
• Feet also sweat and become wet, making the pedals slippery.
• You need to apply more energy to push the pedal when barefoot than when with shoes.
• Repeated use of the clutch can cause cramps or spasms, which is painful, reducing your vehicle’s control efficiency.

Conclusion

Crash avoidance and bringing the car to a sudden stop requires effective brakes and the ability to react swiftly and apply sufficient pressure on the brake pedal. This reaction depends on the kind of shoes you are wearing. Go for comfortable, lightweight, thin soles with traction, breathable shoes for safe driving. Again, avoid driving barefoot as it has more associated risks.

To keep brakes from rusting, start by parking your car in a dry, moisture-free space, such as a temperature-controlled garage. Always clean the undercarriage of all salt deposits and debris. Apply corrosion-resistant paint on the backing plate to prevent rusting from occurring and making it harder to control the brakes. In case of rust spread to the brake rotors, you need replacement.

How Do I Stop My Brakes from Rusting?

There are various actions you need to carry out to control rusting in your brakes and brake parts.

How to Keep Brake Rotors from Rusting During Storage?

You can consider using large plastic bags over the brake rotors during storage. The camphor blocks in the sealed bags will help absorb the moisture in the bags and prevent rusting.

How to Keep Brake Calipers from Rusting?

The best solution is applying caliper paint as a way on how to keep brake drums from rusting. First, remove the caliper from the car, remove one of the slide pins, and swiveling the caliper away from the disc; this will achieve a better paint finish and reduce the chance of contaminating the braking system. Scrub the brake calipers and be careful not to damage them. Remove the pads and any clips, spray with brake cleaner, and mask off any rubber seals.

How to Prevent Brake Drums from Rusting?

Clean the drums up and scrape off all loose rust and debris, wipe well with brake cleaner, and then apply high temp spray paint.

Another tip is to rub the rusted area with a thin coat of aluminized anti-seize compound, which will leave it looking silver.

How to Stop Brake Discs Rusting?

The following tips will help stop rusting in brake discs;

• Paint your discs with primer to stop the rust
• Ensure when storing your vehicle for an extended period, it’s in a dry, sheltered place.
• Use your car every day and gradually increase the braking pressure to remove any rust coating and make the discs shiny when its on surface-level.
• Fit your vehicle with carbon-ceramic discs that do not rust, unlike sat iron ones though they are very expensive.
• Paint the discs with primer to prevent rusting.

How to Stop Brake Discs Rusting After Washing?

• The best is to always dry your car before parking it.
• You can also ride it for a while before parking to ensure the water dries.
• Use brake disc protection spray; it will help prevent rust. Apply it after washing and cleaning the vehicle thoroughly. Allow the water to drip for a few seconds. From a close distance, apply the spray on the brake discs in a sweeping motion.  Later, wipe off the excess liquid.

Is Rust on Breaks Normal?

Some kind of rust on your vehicle are normal. For instance, if the brake rotor has a thin later of rust on its surface after some heavy downpour. You can get rid of this layer by driving your vehicle for a short time, and the brake pads rub it off. But it can be a cause of alarm if rust affects the brake backing plate.  The rust can weaken the brake plate with time, causing brake pad friction material to crack or even separate, and this can result in loss of stopping and control power.

How to Remove Rust from Brake Rotors?

• Drive the car- the superficial layer that forms on the rotors after sitting for a few days, you can remove it through driving.
• Prepare for rotor cleaning- loosen the nuts to remove the wheel and expose the rotor. Remove the calipers and pads if required. Though it’s possible to clean the rotor with the calipers in place, it’s easier to do without them.
• Inspect your pads- pads in good condition should have a crystalline appearance.  Also, examine the pad’s thickness; if less than 4mm of depth, you should replace them. Again, check the caliper piston boot and guide pin boots for tears and address any issues immediately.
• Use brake cleaner to remove the rust- does brake cleaner prevent rust? Break cleaner is useful in helping remove rust from brake rotors.  Spray your rotor with the brake cleaner and wallow it to dry. Later wipe the rotor with a clean rag. If there is still more rust, apply the brake cleaner again and use steel wool or wire brush to scrub gently.
• If the brake cleaner fails, try others like CLR and Evapo -Rust for the stubborn rust. These products work on the rust without affecting the metal beneath.

How Does Vinegar Remove Rust from Rotors?

You can use white vinegar for the best results of rust removal in rotors. The rust reacts with the vinegar and later dissolves. Apply the vinegar on the affected rotor with a piece of cloth, and allow it to settle for at least 30 minutes or more depending on the rust’s intensity.

Does WD 40 Remove Rust?

WD-40 multi-use product is the best treatment for removing rust from the brakes. Apply WD-40 and scrub it with a clean wire brush. You will need to ensure that you use enough to soak the area and sit for 10 minutes. Use a wire brush to remove the item’s rust and make sure it’s soft to avoid scratching the surface. Then repeat the process until the body is free of rust.

Conclusion

As routine maintenance practice, it’s best to protect your brakes and other parts from rusting. Though rusting is inevitable, having a superficial layer on the brakes is normal after few days of keeping the vehicle. To prevent further damage, ensure you drive your car often, store it in a dry garage, take care of the paint and use protective rust sprays.

Usually, driving with an OBD scanner plugged in most vehicles does not cause any problems. Problems only arise when you connect a device that is not for car use. In some instances, some insurance companies may require you to have an OBD2 scanner connected at all times, to send them information about your driving.

If you’re worried about draining the battery, the scanner draws out very little power and won’t be detrimental to your car. Additionally, there are scanners with an auto-sleep mode making it safe to leave it plugged in even when you aren’t using your car over a long period. It is best to contact your product’s customer service since some OBD manufacturers may have specific recommendations on how to use their scanners safely.

Does a car have to be running to use an OBD2 scanner?

Always make sure you turn your vehicle on when using an OBD2 scanner to avoid corrupting its software. You have to turn off your car first then plug in the OBD2 scanner to the OBD port. Turn your car on and wait for the scanner to boot up. If it doesn’t automatically start, press the power button.

Can an OBD2 scanner damage the ECU?

Typically, an OBD2 scanner should not damage your vehicle’s ECU. Though, plugging a scanner with frayed, damaged, or shorted-out wiring is likely to harm the ECU and other systems.

Also, this depends on the scanner you’re using. Simple scan tool modules that read OBD2 live data and report real-time information will not cause issues to your car’s engine control unit (ECU). However, some professional OBD2 scanners can cause ECU malfunctions if you drive for too long when they are connected.

To prevent this, you should get a certified scanner and also secure it in place with some adhesive tape or zip ties to avoid the wiring from damage. Follow the plug-in instructions carefully and never adjust any wiring or pins.

There are also times when it may be necessary to plug in your OBD2 scanner, such as;

1. Your insurance company deems it necessary to track your driving. It makes reporting car accidents easier and also earn great discounts.
2. Driving in harsh weather conditions can be very dangerous. Your battery can die without warning, or you lose pressure tires. With an OBD2 scanner, you will receive warning notifications on the dashboard.
3. You can also detect why your car dies suddenly. It saves you money if you can repair the issue on your own.

Why won’t my car start after using OBD2?

There are several reasons why your car won’t start, but the OBD2 scanner you just used is not one of them. If you turn the ignition and the engine doesn’t crank, it is likely an electrical problem, and if it cranks without starting, the problem is possibly about fuel, sparks, air, or compression. An OBD2 scanner can help you detect some of the issues, which will give you an idea of how to troubleshoot them. Here are some of the reasons your car won’t start:

Trouble code memory

If your car cranks but does not start, there could be an error code in the error code memory. You have to use an OBD2 scanner to detect this error code to bypass other troubleshooting steps and go directly to the part with the error code.

Solution: Fix the arror identified by the OBD2 scanner.

Dead battery

A dead battery is one of the most common reasons why your vehicle is not starting. The battery provides electrical power to the entire car and all its systems. With a dead battery, the battery light will be on, and none of the electrical components such as lights, the radio will work.

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On the other hand, the alternator charges the battery when the vehicle is running. If the battery does not have sufficient charge, you will not start the car or use any electrical parts. Car batteries die because;

• You left the headlights on overnight or for too long.
• A loose wire.
• The evaporated water from the components will cause low conductivity.
• The battery is merely old.

Solution: Jumpstart the car with jumper cables to test if the battery is the problem; if it works, that means your battery is dead, or the alternator is not charging the battery correctly. You have to change the battery or the alternator. If the problem persists, check for corroded cables that restrict electric flow from the battery to the car systems. To fix this, clean the corrosion around the battery terminals.

Broken or damaged ignition switch

If your battery is working accurately, you may be dealing with a defective ignition switch. Since the battery powers the headlights and dashboard, you can test a faulty ignition when the lights turn on, but the car can’t crank up.

Solution. Use a charged battery to jump the starter engine.

Faulty starter

The starter is an electric motor connected to the engine responsible for turning the engine when you turn on the ignition. A broken starter creates a clicking sound when you turn your car on, but the engine does not start.

Solution: Replace the starter.

Clogged fuel filter

If your engine cranks but the car won’t start, a clogged fuel filter may be the culprit. First, check to see if you have fuel in your tank. A miscalibrated fuel gauge will not indicate when you run out of gas.

A clogged fuel filter will prevent gas from reaching the engine. Typically, you should change the fuel filters every 9,000- 13,000 miles, but you should follow your user manual on how your fuel filter often needs a replacement.

If your car has a fuel pressure sensor, the OBD2 scanner will indicate an error code of low fuel pressure. But it is good to confirm with the manual fuel pressure gauge.

Solution: Check the wiring and relay of the pressure pump. Replace the fuel pump if it does not run but gets power. If the pressure is okay and the car won’t start, replace the clogged fuel filter and fix the fuel pressure regulator’s fault.

Poor crankshaft timing

The timing belt keeps the engine’s valves open and closed at the right interval to prevent the valves and pistons from touching. A faulty timing belt can cause irreparable damages to the engine. Using your manual, check the TDC markings for the crankshaft and camshaft alignment. Then check if their timing is correct.

Solution: Replace the timing belt. It is best if you replaced timing belts every 60,000 miles or five years.

Leaving a Bluetooth OBD plugged in is relatively safe for your car’s systems. Whether or not you choose to drive with your OBD scanner plugged in, this device comes in handy because it will save you troubleshooting time by quickly diagnosing your car problems for you. By following the above troubleshooting procedures, you will have your car working in no time.

It is also worth noting that plugging any device into your vehicle’s OBD2 port creates a risk for cyberattacks by giving external access to your car’s systems, which hackers can exploit in various ways.

Why Speakers Make Noise When Car is Off?

The following are possible causes why your speakers are making noise despite the engine is off.

Electrical Interference

Anything that can distort or transmit signals like phones, power cables, or a plugged-in USB port can cause electrical interference. A problem may arise from something simple: leaving a mobile phone at the armhole near a speaker or as a result of some other power source that runs close to your speaker wiring. Electrical interference is often an issue with stereo systems fitted with an aftermarket amplifier.

If you have an amp installed, ensure the RCA cables that run from the amplifier to your head unit are not lying near the amplifier’s power wire. To fix the issue, you need to move either the RCA cables or power wires apart.

Poor Grounding of Stereo Equipment

Each stereo component needs grounding, including the head unit, amplifier, equalizer, and other installed components.  Grounding involves attaching a wire from the element to a bare metal bolt connected to the chassis. The ground wire should connect firmly, fix to a bare unpainted surface, and be as short as possible.

The grounding wire should also be thick as the wire that supplies power to the component. Ensure you check all the connections and consider installing a thicker wire if need be.

Stereo Receiving Power When Car is Off

You can try this with your engine off and keys removed, and turn the radio on. If the radio can switch on and play, your stereo system is receiving power from the battery. The random noise from the speaker can be a problem. You can fix it by switching off the radio before turning off your car.

Antenna Lead Noise

Check out and see if you are getting noise on all sources like playing CD, auxiliary /USB, AM, and FM. If the noise is there only on the radio, it’s mostly coming through the antenna lead. Try unplug the antenna. If the noise goes away, install an antenna noise suppressor. The filter plugs-in- the line between your receiver and your antenna breaking the ground path between them, thus preventing noise from entering your system.

Radiated Noise

If the noise isn’t from the antenna, try pulling the receiver from the dash while a CD is playing. If the noise isn’t present, the source is from your system due to the receiver’s proximity to a noise producer. The noise is known as sideways noise.

If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, you can install a noise filter on accessories power to minimize it. If the car computer is the issue, move the receiver’s wiring away from the accessory. You can use

Engine Noise or Alternator Whine

The noise comes through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver. The engine noise causes whining or clicking sound. Its pitch varies with engine speed.

To fix it, you can install an alternator noise filter on the battery and alternator’s power line to reduce the noise. Again, you can install a noise filter on the receiver’s power to cut down signal interference.

Noise in Patch Cables

RCA patch cables can pick noise as they connect to your components. To test this, detach the wires from your amp. Insert one side of a spare patch cable into amps left and right input jacks and turn on your system and engine. If there is no noise, reconnect the wires to the amp and disconnect them from the receiver. In case of any noise, your patch cables are the problem.

Ensure you separate them at least 18 inches from the power cables. Consider purchasing a better brand of patch cables with good insulation. The size of the cable loop may also affect the noise produced.

If the loop area is large, the patch cable will be more vulnerable to noise. Please purchase a thread with a twisted pair design as a smaller loop area has less noise.  Another option is installing a ground loop isolator between the receiver’s preamp output and your amp.

Noise in Speaker Wiring

If your speaker wires are of inferior quality or did the wiring poorly, the car radio may still receive power. Static noises may come from incorrectly wired speakers.

New Amplifier

An amplifier can cause noise into your system through the lousy ground or incorrect mounting. Rubber grommets or feet may help isolate the amplifier from the vehicle’s chassis, a potential noise source: you may consider installing a noise suppressor.

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Types of Noises Car Speakers Make

The following are noises made when the car engine is off;

• Static/ white noise can be from the speaker’s electrical system due to poorly patched cables or wiring.
• Clicking/whining sound: the noise can be due to low or ground wires connected to the receiver. The sound varies with the engine’s speed.
• Hissing sound: may be due to the electrical system.

Why Do My Speakers Pop When I Turn My Car Off?

A break in the circuit or loose connection will cause the system to pop, resulting in an irritating noise and danger to your speaker’s shelf life. The popping is a surge of electrical current jumping over a broken wire connection or a rise in the amplifier’s output settings.

How to Fix the Problem

• Locate the origin of the popping noises.
• Determine which speaker or speaker wires, amp, or equalizer has issues
• Adjust the amplifier and equalizer. If the noise is from one speaker only, adjust the amp, and if from many speakers, change the equalizer and amp settings—In case of any defects, you need to repair the components.
• If the tips above fail, try connecting a different speaker to check if the issues are in your speaker. When none of the above tips works, consider seeking professional help.

Why is there a Whining Sound from my Speakers When Accelerating?

It’s an engine noise that occurs most likely due to electrical interference from the alternator output. The noise from the alternator gets into your head unit through the power cables. You can fix the issue through the following;

• Fix a noise filter between the battery and alternator
• Install an inline noise filter in the head unit power cable

The tips will help prevent the noise from getting into your head unit and causing the speaker to whine.

Conclusion

The easiest way to avoid speaker issues when the car is off is by seeking professional services in installing your system. Again, ensure you invest in quality speakers, wiring system to avoid all sorts of interference. It may be costly, but it will save you a lot of money. The investment will silence a subwoofer that vibrates when the car is off.

Unfortunately, it can be challenging to know which speaker is right for you. With so many speakers in the market, you need thorough research to find out the best. This write-up gives you a list of the best speakers for sound quality.

Rockford R169X2

The speakers feature a sleek and flat-black design, which includes a glossy dome tweeter. The tweeters also have a perfect design that allows them to fit in most cars. Each speaker has a propylene woofer core responsible for strong drums and bass.

The woofer guarantees high-quality audio in midrange frequencies. The Rockford has a stamped stainless basket, which ensures its durability.

Features

• Vacuum polypropylene woofer cone
• 90dB sensitivity
• 48Hz -20 kHz frequency response
• 65 watts RMS a total of 130 watts peak power
• 4-ohm impedance

Pros  

• The package comes with every component for an easy installation
• Stainless steel basket improves its durability
• Amplifiers are unnecessary to play your music at a reasonable level
• Decent audio quality to enjoy music
• Includes a high pass crossover for the best highs

Cons

• The speakers are not waterproof

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New Kicker 43 DSC69304 D-Series

It’s a low-profile powerhouse of music. The speakers blend into the background, yet their audio makes a significant impact: the speaker’s design shows quality and durability. The kicker is 3-way 6×9 car speakers. The woofer cone has polypropylene with ribbed polyester foam materials.

The woofer cone produces midrange and highs with drivers mounted on it. Both tweeters have 0.5″ PEI domed structures and require a top mount depth of 3.2 inches. The new kicker has a rating of 4ohms, 92d sensitivity, and RMS power can handle 180W per speaker.

The kicker pumps out very clear and open audio. The transparency reflects in the midrange, where vocals are free from the bass. Overall balance is impeccable, and bass present without overbearing. It’s the best 6X9 speakers of bass.

Features

• Two speakers, a powerful pair of motor vehicle stereo speakers
• Slim design; easy to install in sportier cars
• Bare minimum protrusion
• 40-ohm protrusion
• 70 watts RMS and 360 watts per peak power
• 92 dB sensitivity

Pros

• Balanced audio
• Exceptional  clarity
• Slim profile
• Extra spider grille inside for protection
• Super loud and clear
• Great bass production

Cons

• Cheap build quality

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JBL GT0939

The speakers contain cones made with carbon-injected fibers, which allow accurate, good sound output. This speaker has high rating sensitivity of 94dB, which is among the highest.  Therefore, the loudest 6×9 speakers. They contain a great deal of power, and you can pair them up to an outboard amplifier.

The speaker has unique components like plus one woofer cone, which provides surface area while keeping the size constant. The high sensitivity rating enables the speakers to pair up with low powered stereo systems. The devices handle a large amount of power, making them compatible with outboard amplifiers.

The JBL is also easy to install and requires no special tools. The plus one technology that the cone features, allow more air vibration in the surrounding, making the music sound brilliant. The tweeters are from Titanium-mylar Combo materials and help deliver clear highs.

Features

• Design 3-way
• 300 watts peak power
• RMS power: 100 watts
• Sensitivity : 94dB
• The frequency range of 46-21KHz
• The normal impedance of 30 ohm

Pros

• Carbon -injected woofers
• Adjustable tweeter level
• Vented magnetic assemblies for cooling
• The built-in soft dome tweeter
• Highs are clear, mids easy and natural bass big
• reasonably priced

Cons

• Peak power handling capacity is below average

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Boss Audio CH6530

They are 3-way speakers, which gives a guarantee decent sound regardless of audio frequency. Each speaker delivers 150 watts, thus a total of 300.  Boss audio has polyurethane cones, aluminum voice coils, and rubber that surrounds.  It’s the best speaker that meets your needs and is known for producing high-quality sound.

Boss audio voice coils can withstand high temperatures. It’s has a piezoelectric tweeter. It’s more resistant to overloads, and you can use it without a crossover. The cone has polyurethane, a resilient, flexible, and durable material. The material allows the speakers to have maximum flexibility, produce excellent sound, and be long-lasting.

Features

• Full range of 6.5″ 3-way speaker pair
• 300 watts maximum, 150 watts RMS power per pair
• 100 Hz to 18kHz frequency response
• Poly injection woofer cone and rubber surround

Pros

• Decent sound quality
• Very affordable
• The foam- upgrade and poly cone improves durability

Cons

• Struggles with high frequencies

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Pioneer TS-A6966

The speaker produces high improved sound quality. Pioneer have multilayer mic matrix cones, and lightweight elastic polymer surrounds. Their 3-way design combines three speakers in a single stand-alone and unit. The combination allows for better sound performance and provides a mid-range and strong bass.

Pioneer delivers clear and vibrant sound. The speakers are easy to install in your car. Also, their black color blends into modern car interiors.

Features

• Integrated 3-way design with super tweeters
• Smooth-off axis response
• Lightweight elastic polymer surrounds for high sensitivity
• 92 dB sensitivity
• Passive crossover network

Pros

• Excellent handling power
• 4-ways speakers
• Great for beginners in-car audio
• Consistent sound everywhere

Cons

• It takes time to perform at full capacity

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Do I Need an AMP for 6×9 Speakers?

It’s misleading to say you need an amp for 6×9 speakers. Your speakers are already the best and can function alone correctly. However, there are several advantages you’ll get by using an amplifier to drive the speakers;

• lower distortion and cleaner sound
• ability to block power-robbing
• lots of power available and much volume
• flexibility for your system

Things to Consider When Choosing 6×9 Car Speakers

Consider the following factors when purchasing a car speaker;

• Type of speaker: either component where all units are separate or full-range a single unit system.
• Sound quality: more expansive sound-range sound is better with a standard peak frequency of 20,000Hz, the lowest peak of 10 Hertz.
• Speaker sensitivity: low-powered stereo systems match with the highly sensitive speaker.
• Power handling: low-powered stereo will require speakers around 2-50 watts RMS.
• 2-way or 3-way: 3way speakers have a woofer, tweeter, and added mid-range components while 2-way has a woofer and tweeter.
• Speaker build materials: polypropylene is best due to accurate bass sounds.
• Speaker compatibility and configuration: speaker should match your car model.
• Cost of the speaker: purchase a budget-friendly speaker.

Conclusion

The 6×9 speakers are the best to upgrade your car audio systems. Choose the best sound quality speakers from the list following the guidelines when buying. With 6×9 speakers, you will enjoy your time while driving.